Find a good plasterer in Glasgow.

• Fine hairlines in new plaster

  OftenShrinkage as it dries.

  What to doUsually cosmetic. Show the plasterer before filling it.

  Normal

• Straight lines across a ceiling

  OftenA plasterboard joint.

  What to doHave the joint and fixings checked before choosing a repair.

  Plasterer

• Cracks along old lath ceilings

  UsuallySeveral causes, including the plaster losing its grip on the laths.

  What to doDon’t press or disturb it. Keep clear of any loose area and get it looked at promptly by someone who knows old ceilings.

  Act promptly

• Diagonal from door or window corners

  Could beMovement in the building.

  What to doGet a builder or surveyor to look before anyone plasters over it.

  Surveyor

• Wider than about 5 mm, or getting bigger

  Could beMovement in the building.

  What to doGet it checked, especially if doors stick or there are matching cracks outside. Photograph and date it.

  Surveyor

• Cracks with brown stains or bubbling paint

  OftenMoisture getting in.

  What to doFind and fix the cause before repairing the plaster.

  Fix leak first

• Roughly 1860s–1910s

  Sandstone tenements

  Lime plaster on timber laths for ceilings, lime on the stone or brick walls. High ceilings, cornices and ceiling roses.

  Common jobsCracked or sagging lath ceilings, cornice repairs, patching old lime walls.

  West End, Southside, Dennistoun, Govanhill, Partick, Paisley

• Roughly 1920s–1930s

  Cottage flats and semis

  Mostly gypsum plaster on brick, some older ceilings still on lath.

  Common jobsRe-skims, cracks where old and new plaster meet, ceiling repairs.

  Knightswood, Mosspark, Riddrie, Rutherglen, Bearsden

• Roughly 1945–1970s

  Post-war council houses and new towns

  Plasterboard ceilings, often finished in artex. Walls in wet plaster or board.

  Common jobsArtex ceilings (test first), cracks along board joints, full re-skims.

  East Kilbride, Cumbernauld, Drumchapel, Castlemilk, Easterhouse

• 1980s onwards

  Newer houses and flats

  Plasterboard stuck to block walls (dot and dab) with taped joints, sometimes skimmed.

  Common jobsPatching after a new kitchen or rewire, popped screws, cracks at joints.

  Across the city and new estates

• Any age

  Outside walls

  Roughcast (harling) on most houses outside the city centre, render on some newer homes.

  Common jobsPatch repairs, full re-harling, cracks letting water in.

  Most of the towns around Glasgow

• A leak from the flat above

  Find what caused the leak. Who pays depends on what failed and your title deeds, and the upstairs owner’s insurance doesn’t automatically cover your ceiling. Photograph the damage and speak to your buildings insurer or factor.

• Roof, gutters and the close

  These are often shared between owners. Check your title deeds for repair shares and how decisions are made before anyone is instructed.

• Overboard or take it down

  Boarding over a lath ceiling can work, if it’s fixed securely to the joists. Loose plaster, cornices, the extra weight, any asbestos and the fire and sound separation between flats all need considering first.

• Keeping the cornice

  Damaged cornice can often be repaired or a length run to match. Ask whether the plasterer does this work before they quote.

• Lime or gypsum

  Traditional sandstone buildings commonly used lime mortar and plaster. Ask for repairs that are compatible with what’s already there.

• Access and neighbours

  Materials and rubbish go through the close. Let neighbours know, keep the stair clear, and check whether a skip needs a council permit.

• Lime is usually right for

  Repairing traditional lime plaster on solid stone or brick walls. Check what’s already there and where any moisture comes from first.

• Gypsum is usually fine for

  Dry plasterboard and other sound, compatible surfaces, following the product instructions.

• Be careful with

  Dense cement render or waterproof “tanking” on a traditional stone wall. Get specialist advice first.

• A damp flag on a Home Report

  Category 2 means a repair needs attention in future. Category 3 means urgent repair is needed now. Follow the surveyor’s advice and find the cause before choosing any damp treatment.

• Leave it

  An intact coating that won’t be disturbed can often be left where it is.

  When it suitsGet advice if it’s damaged or work might disturb it.

• Skim over it

  Plastered over once the coating and ceiling have been checked.

  When it suitsAny work over asbestos needs a suitable method and trained workers.

• Overboard it

  Plasterboard fixed over the top, then skimmed.

  When it suitsCan suit deep patterns. Needs secure fixings, a safe method for drilling through the coating, and lights refitted.

• Remove it

  Softened and scraped off.

  When it suitsNeeds a competent asbestos assessment first. Larger removal is normally notifiable work, and some work needs a licensed contractor.

HSE guidance on asbestos: hse.gov.uk/asbestos

• Bathrooms and showers

  Shower walls need a suitable tiling background and a waterproofing system. Agree the boards, membrane and joints with your tiler before work starts.

• Ready for tiling

  Agree a background that suits the boards, adhesive and tiles, including weight limits. Gypsum plaster must be fully dry first.

• Kitchens

  Plaster after the electrician and plumber have moved things, and before the units go in, where possible.

• Outside walls

  Follow the render maker’s weather limits and agree safe access. Ask for a sample patch to check the colour and texture match.

1. Fix leaks and damp

   Roofer, plumber or the owner upstairs. Then let the walls dry.

2. Structural work

   Walls taken out, openings made, steels in. A building warrant may be needed.

3. First fix

   The electrician runs new cables and chases walls. The plumber moves pipes and takes radiators off the walls being plastered.

4. Protect sockets and switches

   Power off, faceplates loosened, and covers fitted so plaster doesn’t fill the boxes.

5. Plastering

   Boarding, beads, any bonding coat, then the skim.

6. Drying

   Days for a skim on board, weeks for thicker coats on old walls.

7. Second fix

   Skirting, door facings and flooring go on. Faceplates and radiators go back.

8. Decorating

   Mist coat, then paint or paper. Tiling once the wall is dry.

The mist coat isn’t usually in a plastering price. Check whether you, the plasterer or the decorator will do it.

• Inside your flat

  Plaster inside your flat is generally your own responsibility. Check first if the work affects shared structure, services, fire separation between flats, or protected features. Tenants should ask their landlord.

  Check: Under One Roof: underoneroof.scot

• Roughcast, roof and close

  Outside walls, the roof and the common close are usually shared. Follow the repair and voting rules in your title deeds. Where they don’t cover it, the Tenement Management Scheme may apply.

  Check: Under One Roof: underoneroof.scot

• Listed buildings

  Get council advice before removing or covering historic plasterwork in a listed building. Work that affects its character needs listed building consent.

  Check: Historic Environment Scotland and Glasgow City Council

• Conservation areas

  Changing the outside finish, such as replacing roughcast with a different render, may need planning permission. Inside work usually doesn’t.

  Check: Glasgow City Council: conservation areas

• Building warrants

  A simple skim or like-for-like repair generally doesn’t. Ask building standards before removing walls or changing a floor or ceiling between flats.

  Check: eBuilding Standards: ebuildingstandards.scot

• Asbestos

  Have suspect coatings assessed before any work that might disturb them, including drilling for boards.

  Check: HSE: hse.gov.uk/asbestos

• Skips and parking

  A skip on the road needs a council permit, usually arranged by the skip company. Check the council’s parking rules for the address in case a permit or bay suspension is needed.

  Check: Your local council: Glasgow, Renfrewshire, North or South Lanarkshire, West or East Dunbartonshire

• 01

  Which rooms and surfaces

  List each wall and ceiling separately. Ceilings take longer than walls, and a quote for “the living room” can mean different things to different people.

• 02

  Skim or re-plaster

  Most rooms only need a skim. If you’re not sure, ask the plasterer to tap the walls and tell you which areas are blown before they price it.

• 03

  Other trades first

  New sockets, moved pipes, new windows and doors should all be done before plastering. The decorator comes last, once the plaster is dry.

• 04

  Timing

  Spring and summer are the busiest months. Plaster dries slower in a cold Glasgow winter, so leave more time before decorating or new carpets.

• 05

  Living in or empty

  An empty room is quicker and cleaner. If you’re living in, expect dust beyond the room even with good protection.

• 06

  Tenement extras

  Materials and rubbish go up and down the close, so let neighbours know. Parking permits, top-floor carries and a skip permit from the council can add to the cost.

• 07

  Old and listed buildings

  In a listed building or conservation area, ask about lime plaster and keeping original cornices. Check with the council before removing original features.

• 08

  Budget and quotes

  For bigger jobs get two or three written quotes and compare what each one includes, not only the total.

If extra work turns up once the job starts, such as a blown wall or a weak ceiling, a good plasterer stops, shows you, and agrees the price with you before carrying on.

1. Same day

   Walk round with the plasterer in the room’s normal light. Look at corners, edges around sockets and window reveals, and raise anything you’re not sure of.

2. First few days

   Follow the drying advice for the plaster used. Keep furniture off the walls and ask when it’s safe to decorate and fix things.

3. When it’s pale and even

   Pale, even colour is a good sign with gypsum, but make sure it’s fully dry before decorating.

4. Before tiling

   Tiles need a dry background that can take their weight. Check the board and plaster system with your tiler before the job.

5. Torch test

   Look at the walls in the light you’ll actually use. Discuss anything that stands out with the plasterer before decorating.

6. Within a few weeks

   Show new cracks to the plasterer before filling them. Get prompt advice for widening cracks or loose plaster.

7. Wallpaper

   Wait until the plaster is fully dry, then size it or use a wallpaper primer first.

8. Pictures and shelves

   Wait until it’s dry. Choose fixings for the wall and the load, and check for pipes and cables before drilling.

9. Small marks

   Raise obvious ridges, rough or loose areas with the plasterer before decorating. Agree who does any minor filling.

10. Don’t force it

    Let new plaster dry naturally. Heaters or a dehumidifier used to speed it up can make it crack, unless the plaster maker approves a method.

11. Patchy colour

    Some areas dry faster than others, so patchy colour while it dries is common. Ask about patches that stay dark or look damp.

12. Mist coat

    Use a paint or primer suitable for new plaster and follow its dilution instructions. Lime plaster needs a compatible paint.

13. Cleaning up dust

    The plasterer should clear building dust with suitable extraction; then damp-wipe what’s left. Never use an ordinary vacuum on debris that might contain asbestos.

14. Before you pay the balance

    Check the agreed work is done and raise any defects before the final payment. Put any outstanding work and payment terms in writing.

• Ceiling height

  High ceilings can need a tower or platform. Give the ceiling height when you ask for a price.

  More time

• Getting there

  Top floor with no lift, a narrow close, or no parking near the door.

  More time

• What’s on the wall

  Wallpaper, loose paint and damaged areas need preparing. Suspect textured coatings need assessing first.

  More prep

• Making good

  Filling chases after a rewire, beading corners and fiddly areas around windows.

  More time

• Size of the job

  Small jobs may have a minimum charge. Ask what it is.

  Minimum charge

• Lime or gypsum

  Ask for lime repairs to be specified and priced separately, including any return visits.

  Higher rate

• Outside work

  Roughcast and render usually need scaffolding. Ask for it to be itemised.

  Scaffolding

• Rubbish

  Old plaster is heavy. Ask whether taking it away is included.

  Ask

• Time of year

  Check availability and agree dates before booking other trades.

  Availability

• Fixed price or day rate

  Agree whether it’s a fixed price or a day rate, what it covers, and how unexpected extra work will be charged.

  Ask which

• Stairwells and landings

  Tall stairwells need boards or a tower over the steps, and more setting up.

  More time

• Window reveals

  Squaring up and beading reveals, often after new windows, is fiddly work.

  More time

• Bonding coat

  Chased walls, removed tiles or crumbling old walls may need building out before the skim.

  Extra coat

• Several rooms at once

  Ask whether doing several rooms together changes the total price.

  Ask

• VAT

  VAT-registered contractors normally charge 20% VAT on domestic repair work, including materials. Ask for the total price including VAT.

  Check VAT